Generic placeholder image

Current Cosmetic Science

Author(s): Ehsan Eslahi* and Nooshin Hashemi

DOI: 10.2174/2666779702666230731161153

DownloadDownload PDF Flyer Cite As
Anti-spot Effects of Developed Brightening Cream Composed of Three Active Ingredients (Resorcinol, Arbutin and Licorice Root Extract) in Comparison with the Hydroquinone Cream

Article ID: e310723219310 Pages: 8

  • * (Excluding Mailing and Handling)

Abstract

Aims: The aim of this study was to evaluate the brightening effects of a complex composed of Resorcinol, Arbutin, and Licorice root extract (RAL complex) in patients faced with skin spots compared to a potential hydroquinone compound.

Background: Skin spots are defined as excessive accumulation of melanin pigment in different layers of the skin caused by extravagant sun exposure, pregnancy, and other hormonal and genetic factors. Therefore, it is necessary to use appropriate products to treat these types of spots.

Objective: To evaluate skin brightness after using the RAL complex, this study was designed in a double-blind randomized trial and the removal of melanin pigment and skin spots was evaluated by different methods.

Methods: In this study, the brightening cream formulated with actives comprising the RAL complex in 2.1% w/w concentration and a hydroquinone cream was applied in two groups of 20 women with a mean age of 48 years showing the severity scale 3 of skin pigmentation, separately. This study was conducted to evaluate the brightening effect of this complex compared to a hydroquinone compound after 4, 8, and, 12 weeks of application to the entire face.

Results: The results showed the highest percentage of skin brightness 12 weeks after applying the cream, reported at 93% and 89% for RAL complex and hydroquinone compound, respectively. Skin pigmentation rate was measured before and after applying the RAL complex cream with a mexameter device. The highest amount of dark spot removal was seen after using this cream in different areas of the skin.

Conclusion: The results showed that the RAL complex was more effective than the hydroquinone compound in removing skin blemishes without any side effects compared to products containing hydroquinone.

[1]
Braun-Falco, O.; Plewig, G.; Wolff, H.H.; Burgdorf, W.H.; Braun-Falco, O.; Plewig, G.; Wolff, H.H.; Burgdorf, W.H. Disorders of melanin pigmentation. Dermatology, 2000, 1013-1042.
[2]
Burger, P.; Landreau, A.; Azoulay, S.; Michel, T.; Fernandez, X. Skin whitening cosmetics: Feedback and challenges in the development of natural skin lighteners. Cosmetics, 2016, 3(4), 36.
[http://dx.doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics3040036]
[3]
Ebanks, J.; Wickett, R.; Boissy, R. Mechanisms regulating skin pigmentation: The rise and fall of complexion coloration. Int. J. Mol. Sci., 2009, 10(9), 4066-4087.
[http://dx.doi.org/10.3390/ijms10094066] [PMID: 19865532]
[4]
Charoo, N.A. Hyperpigmentation: Looking beyond hydroquinone. J. Cosmet. Dermatol., 2022, 21(10), 4133-4145.
[http://dx.doi.org/10.1111/jocd.14746] [PMID: 35020267]
[5]
Westerhof, W.; Kooyers, T.J. Hydroquinone and its analogues in dermatology - a potential health risk. J. Cosmet. Dermatol., 2005, 4(2), 55-59.
[http://dx.doi.org/10.1111/j.1473-2165.2005.40202.x] [PMID: 17166200]
[6]
Shin, J.W.; Park, K.C. Current clinical use of depigmenting agents. Zhonghua Pifuke Yixue Zazhi, 2014, 32(4), 205-210.
[http://dx.doi.org/10.1016/j.dsi.2014.07.003]
[7]
Gold, M.H.; Biron, J. Efficacy of a novel hydroquinone-free skin-brightening cream in patients with melasma. J. Cosmet. Dermatol., 2011, 10(3), 189-196.
[http://dx.doi.org/10.1111/j.1473-2165.2011.00573.x] [PMID: 21896130]
[8]
Herndon, J.H., Jr; Makino, E.T.; Stephens, T.J.; Mehta, R.C. Hydroquinone-free skin brightener system for the treatment of moderate-to-severe facial hyperpigmentation. J. Clin. Aesthet. Dermatol., 2014, 7(5), 27-31.
[PMID: 24847406]
[9]
Bossart, S.; Ramelet, A.A.; Willenberg, T.; Cazzaniga, S.; Baumgartner, M.; Heidemeyer, K.; Hunger, R.E.; Seyed Jafari, S.M. Skin hyperpigmentation index facilitating quantification of hyperpigmentation in clinical practice. Dermatology, 2021, 237(3), 486-488.
[http://dx.doi.org/10.1159/000509160] [PMID: 32781447]
[10]
Matias, A.R.; Ferreira, M.; Costa, P.; Neto, P. Skin colour, skin redness and melanin biometric measurements: comparison study between antera ® 3d, mexameter ® and colorimeter ®. Skin Res. Technol., 2015, 21(3), 346-362.
[http://dx.doi.org/10.1111/srt.12199] [PMID: 25645051]
[11]
Ranu, H.; Thng, S.; Goh, B.K.; Burger, A.; Goh, C.L. Periorbital hyperpigmentation in Asians: An epidemiologic study and a proposed classification. Dermatol. Surg., 2011, 37(9), 1297-1303.
[http://dx.doi.org/10.1111/j.1524-4725.2011.02065.x] [PMID: 21682796]
[12]
Kaliterna, D.; Kristina, Z.; Kovacevic, I. Melasma-review of current treatment modalities and efficacy assessment of a new resorcinol-based topical formulation. J Clin Cosmet Dermatol., 2017, 3, 2576-2826.
[13]
Kolbe, L.; Mann, T.; Gerwat, W.; Batzer, J.; Ahlheit, S.; Scherner, C.; Wenck, H.; Stäb, F. 4-n-butylresorcinol, a highly effective tyrosinase inhibitor for the topical treatment of hyperpigmentation. J. Eur. Acad. Dermatol. Venereol., 2013, 27(Suppl. 1), 19-23.
[http://dx.doi.org/10.1111/jdv.12051] [PMID: 23205541]
[14]
Barel, A.O.; Paye, M.; Maibach, H.I. Eds.; Handbook of cosmetic science and technology. CRC press, 2014.
[http://dx.doi.org/10.1201/b16716]
[15]
Köpke, D.; Müller, R.H.; Pyo, S.M. Phenylethyl resorcinol smartLipids for skin brightening – Increased loading & chemical stability. Eur. J. Pharm. Sci., 2019, 137, 104992.
[http://dx.doi.org/10.1016/j.ejps.2019.104992] [PMID: 31302211]
[16]
Nieuweboer-Krobotova, L. Hyperpigmentation: Types, diagnostics and targeted treatment options. J. Eur. Acad. Dermatol. Venereol., 2013, 27(Suppl. 1), 2-4.
[http://dx.doi.org/10.1111/jdv.12048] [PMID: 23205538]
[17]
Lim, Y.J.; Lee, E.H.; Kang, T.H.; Ha, S.K.; Oh, M.S.; Kim, S.M.; Yoon, T.J.; Kang, C.; Park, J.H.; Kim, S.Y. Inhibitory effects of arbutin on melanin biosynthesis of α-melanocyte stimulating hormone-induced hyperpigmentation in cultured brownish guinea pig skin tissues. Arch. Pharm. Res., 2009, 32(3), 367-373.
[http://dx.doi.org/10.1007/s12272-009-1309-8] [PMID: 19387580]
[18]
Boo, Y.C. Arbutin as a skin depigmenting agent with antimelanogenic and antioxidant properties. Antioxidants, 2021, 10(7), 1129.
[http://dx.doi.org/10.3390/antiox10071129] [PMID: 34356362]
[19]
Couteau, C.; Coiffard, L. Overview of skin whitening agents: Drugs and cosmetic products. Cosmetics, 2016, 3(3), 27.
[http://dx.doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics3030027]
[20]
Haddad, A.L.; Matos, L.F.; Brunstein, F.; Ferreira, L.M.; Silva, A.; Costa, D., Jr A clinical, prospective, randomized, double-blind trial comparing skin whitening complex with hydroquinone vs. placebo in the treatment of melasma. Int. J. Dermatol., 2003, 42(2), 153-156.
[http://dx.doi.org/10.1046/j.1365-4362.2003.01621.x] [PMID: 12709008]
[21]
Ciganović, P.; Jakimiuk, K.; Tomczyk, M.; Zovko Končić, M. Glycerolic licorice extracts as active cosmeceutical ingredients: Extraction optimization, chemical characterization, and biological activity. Antioxidants, 2019, 8(10), 445.
[http://dx.doi.org/10.3390/antiox8100445] [PMID: 31581512]
[22]
Amer, M.; Metwalli, M. Topical hydroquinone in the treatment of some hyperpigmentary disorders. Int. J. Dermatol., 1998, 37(6), 449-450.
[http://dx.doi.org/10.1046/j.1365-4362.1998.00499.x] [PMID: 9646135]
[23]
Owolabi, J.O.; Fabiyi, O.S.; Adelakin, L.A.; Ekwerike, M.C. Effects of skin lightening cream agents–hydroquinone and kojic acid, on the skin of adult female experimental rats. Clin. Cosmet. Investig. Dermatol., 2020, 13, 283-289.
[http://dx.doi.org/10.2147/CCID.S233185] [PMID: 32308462]
[24]
Vinardell, M.P. The use of non-animal alternatives in the safety evaluations of cosmetics ingredients by the scientific committee on consumer safety (SCCS). Regul. Toxicol. Pharmacol., 2015, 71(2), 198-204.
[http://dx.doi.org/10.1016/j.yrtph.2014.12.018] [PMID: 25555996]
[25]
Ertam, I.; Mutlu, B.; Unal, I.; Alper, S.; Kivçak, B.; Ozer, O. Efficiency of ellagic acid and arbutin in melasma: A randomized, prospective, open-label study. J. Dermatol., 2008, 35(9), 570-574.
[http://dx.doi.org/10.1111/j.1346-8138.2008.00522.x] [PMID: 18837701]